In a shallow dish, combine soy sauce, white wine, and brown sugar. Add salmon fillets, coat both sides, and set aside to marinate.

Tear the shiitakes into small pieces, finely dice the celery stalk, mince the garlic, and finely chop the onion.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil over high in a heavy bottomed pot or skillet. Add shiitakes and cook until they release their moisture. Add 1 tablespoon oil and cook until they start to brown. Stir in soy sauce and cook for 1 minute more. Remove from skillet.

Reduce heat to medium low and add 1 tablespoon oil. Add the celery, onion, and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add rice and toast for 1 minute. Deglaze with white wine and simmer for 2 minutes while scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the skillet using a wooden spoon.

Add 2 ladles of chicken broth at a time, stirring frequently, until the broth has been almost completely absorbed before adding the next 2 ladles. Cook until the rice is almost al dente, about 15 minutes. Stir in shiitakes. Dissolve miso with 2 tablespoons hot broth and add to risotto. Simmer about 5 minutes until the risotto is ready, adding more broth if needed.

In the meantime, heat oil and butter over medium high in a nonstick skillet. Add salmon and sear for 4 minutes per side.

Serve salmon over risotto, topped with black pepper, chives, and sesame seeds.