Trim the excess fat from the chicken thighs and discard. Combine dark brown sugar, salt, five spice powder, white pepper, hoisin sauce, Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, and red food coloring (if using) in a bowl to make the marinade. Rub the chicken with the marinade in a large bowl or baking dish. Cover and refrigerate overnight, or at least 8 hours.

About 2½ hours before cooking, take the chicken out of the refrigerator to come up to room temperature. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).

Line a sheet pan with heavy-duty foil and place a sheet of parchment paper or non-stick foil on top. Evenly space the marinated chicken thighs on the sheet.

Transfer the chicken to the preheated oven, and roast for 30 minutes, checking every 15 minutes. If it starts to scorch, tent it with aluminum foil and/or lower the oven temperature.

While the chicken bakes, make your basting sauce by pouring the excess marinade into a small saucepan with the water. Heat to a simmer. Add the maltose and mix until melted.

After 30 minutes, use a brush to baste the chicken with the cooked marinade. Continue roasting for another 5-10 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C) and juices run clear. Optionally, baste again and roast for an additional minute for extra crust before serving.